Mouth-watering sanma sushi a taste treat not to be missed
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I love to eat charcoal grilled, fatty sanma while it's hot, together with authentically-brewed, dry sake. At first, I start with the liver. I feel the slightly bitter taste of the liver on my tongue. And then, I can feel the cold sake soak gradually into my tongue. It's such a happy moment.
In general, it's difficult to make an ekiben using freshly-grilled sanma. But an ekiben called Sanma-zushi, sold at Shingu Station in Wakayama Prefecture, offers cold grilled sanma that tastes as great as the hot stuff.
Sanma-zushi is actually local sushi of Kii Peninsula, where Wakayama Prefecture is situated. On ceremonial days, every family in the region makes sanma-zushi and warmly welcomes their guests.
In the Owase area, they cut sanma open along the back, while the belly is split in the Shingu and Kumano areas. The method of making sanma-zushi is subtly different depending on the area, even though they are on the same part of the peninsula.
Since the Sanma-zushi ekiben sold at Shingu Station uses the belly-split sanma, the blue black back of the fish comes in the center of the sushi. The sanma's glowing skin would probably be irresistible to bling-bling lovers. A whole sanma is used for the bozushi style sushi, and cut into bite-size pieces. The fish is also perfectly vinegar-flavored, making it tasty even for children. Accompanying the sushi is pickled ginger.
I think grilled sanma should be juicy. In fact, however, it is said that sanma which is too fatty is not good for sushi. Sanma cannot be an ingredient of superb quality until its meat becomes firmer after losing excess fat in the tides. Sanma landed at major fishing ports in northern Japan, such as Ishimaki, Kesennuma and Choshi, is usually thick and fatty. Lean sanma, which swam in the cold current from those areas down to off the coast of Kii Peninsula in winter, is perfect for sushi. Well...it's merely sanma, but more than that.
The ekiben package is adorned with an illustration of sanma against a background of sky blue waves. The haggard appearance of skinny sanma looks kind of funny.
Glossary of terms:
Sanma: Pacific saury
Sanma-zushi: Saury sushi
Bo-zushi: Log-shaped sushi
Shinobu Kobayashi
Shinobu Kobayashi is a freelance writer, editor and bento lover. The Chiba Prefecture native spends at least 150 days a year on the road and has written about 4,000 different types of bento. She has also written about some 2,000 hotels or lodgings she has covered. Kobayashi's specialties are drinking, typing and buying too many souvenirs on trips. Kobayashi enjoys drinking, traveling to casinos around the world and chilling out on tropical islands. She is one of Japan's foremost writers on bento and her books include "Ekiben: Shiru, Taberu, Erabu," "Ekiben Ou," and "Nippon Ekiben Taikai."
http://mdn.mainichi-msn.co.jp/national/news/20060910p2a00m0na005000c.html